Everybody asks me at Café del Mar, hey, you live here- where are the best beaches? Well, good news, everyone! Today we’re going to look at one of the best beaches I’ve ever found on Ibiza.
I was reading through some Diario de Ibiza articles the other day, brushing up on my Spanish, when I came across a story that really grabbed my attention. With a little bit of further investigation through Google Maps, I grabbed my camera and my trusty 50cc scooter and headed to the north of the Island on a great adventure. On a quest to visit them all, I search religiously for the best beaches, the secret beaches, and I’m happy to report my findings to you. No charge!
The article I read I will summarise for you here- hopefully, I get the story true enough. According to the writer in Diario, there are three types of man. The Essential Man, who lives according to nature, builds his own house and bothers little with the outside world. Then there is The Insatiable Man, who fuelled by ambition grabs opportunities and forges new paths. Finally, comes The Introspective Man, who reflects and works in metaphor.
Ancient History of One of the Best Beaches of Ibiza
What has this got to do with a secret beach, I hear you cry into your mojito, just tell me how to get there. Well, patience, I’m getting to that. First, we need a history lesson about Es Canaret.
Many moons ago when I was young and you were even younger, there was a farmer by the name of Bartomeu Torres d’en Marçà. He is The Essential Man in the story. In years past he owned the land close to the cove, growing vines, making wine and keeping chickens and rabbits on an islet a couple of metres off the coast. Why risk your animals wandering off when you can keep them on Rabbit Alcatraz? Practicality embodied.
After Bartomeu came a retired World War II army captain, who bore the preposterously archetypal German name of Siegfried Otto. Arriving flush with post-war currency, (he owned the business that printed Deutschmarks back then, and Euros today) Otto began construction with Teutonic efficiency. While Otto lived on the island for thirty years or more, he battled with the local authorities as he demanded sole access to Es Canaret- which was repeatedly denied. The robust Ibicencans also denied Otto his last wish, to be buried on his land, and so for the last twenty years, he lies in the cemetery at Sant Joan. So ends the tale of The Insatiable Man.
Into modernity… and beyond
Cue the third and final tenant of the land, the famous architect Germán Rodríguez Arias. With a history of minimalist architecture, Arias reshaped the buildings to something more fitting for the cove, as well as installing gardens unlike any on the island. Reflecting and working in metaphor, Arias is the introspective man, standing between his predecessors and linking both. That’s how it goes in Diario, says a lot about the quality of Spanish newspapers- far superior to the English ones. It’s like poetry.
OK- enough of the back story. The beach of Es Canaret is 60 metres of sand and gravel, overlooked by the white tower of Herr Otto. The waters are crystal blue, some of the most spectacular on the island. The natural protection of the cove ensures that the waters are calm and usually free of jellyfish. Doesn’t that sound like the one of the best beaches ever?
How to get there
From Sant Joan, take the road north to Portinatx for about 2 kilometres. After a very steep curve, you will see the entrance to the Ca sa Vilda Marge farmhouse on the right. In front of this, there is a paved road to the left- this is the road you want.
Follow this road and pass some dirt paths until the tarmac forks two or three kilometres later. Then, take the road on the right (the sign reads ‘Xarraca’) and then turn on the third dirt road on the left.
Still with me?
If you’re on the right path, the road has should have a low stone wall to the left, and forest to the right. As you near the coast you will reach the entrance of a house. There you have to turn right until you reach a parking lot next to a water tank, 200 meters ahead. Park your car or scooter, there is no road from here on.
Behind the water tank is a path that leads to the cove, it will be marked with wooden signs reading ‘sendero publico peatonal’. I had to look that one up, but I am reliably informed that this is ‘public footpath.’ Basically, you get to this sign, and you’re nearly there.
Remember to bring water, some snacks and sun lotion; the heat can be prodigious. When you finally arrive, you are greeted by a glorious, secluded and quiet beach even in high season. Es Canaret provides some of the best snorkeling on Ibiza. Even so, the only competition for spaces on the beach will come from other intrepid adventurers (who are kindred spirits and friends on your quest for the best beaches) and those who have simply sailed east from Bennirás and found the cove from the sea.
If you have fortitude and adventure in your heart this summer, go and find Es Canaret. It truly is a wondrous place to spend the day.
Get the directions